H&M has announced plans to use generative artificial intelligence (genAI) to create digital “twins” of models.

The fashion retailer said it will work with models and agencies to create digital replicas of 30 models, provided they give permission to use their AI-generated images.

The initiative, first reported by Business of Fashion, will see H&M incorporate the images in social media posts and marketing campaigns.

The brand said it is working with Swedish technology company Uncut to produce the new genAI portfolio.

Jörgen Andersson, H&M's chief creative officer, said in post on LinkedIn that the creative process and outcomes will remain firmly controlled by the people involved, in line with H&M’s wider ethos.

“Now, we’re exploring new territory - generative AI - and discovering how technology can unlock new ways to showcase our design in innovative ways, while still staying humble to our human-centric approach,” he said. “The opportunities are almost endless; we can explore and enhance creativity which benefits us and the entire industry.”

The retailer said that models will own the rights to their twins, with the freedom to allow other brands, including H&M's competitors, to use them as well.

H&M has also confirmed that the models will be compensated for the use of their digital twins in line with current agreements, where payment is based on the rates set by their agents.

Paul W Fleming, general secretary of performing arts and entertainment trade union Equity, said that giving models full rights to use their images with full control is “vital” in an AI era where unauthorised use of personal images is spreading and strong protections for workers in the field are needed.

He told the BBC: "Whilst we support brands who appear to be moving in this direction, this must be backed up by the widespread adoption of AI protections in union agreements and legislation that protects workers' rights.”

H&M's AI-generated images will have to use watermarks on images and disclose when the images are AI-generated on social media.

Platforms such as Meta have also started to tag posts it detects as AI-generated.

Emerging regulations, such as the EU AI Act, also require visible disclosure of AI-generated content to avoid misinformation.

However, the retailer has admitted it is unaware of the impact this approach will have on models and teams who work on creating imagery for the fashion industry, including photographers, stylists, hairdressers and make-up artists, raising concerns in the industry.

American influencer Morgan Riddle told the BBC that the initiative is “shameful” because it puts many jobs at risk.

However, Model Mathilda Gvarliani welcomed the initiative as an opportunity to get more work done and spend less time travelling.

“It's like me, without the jet lag,” she told Business of Fashion, showing a picture of a genAI version of herself.

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